Jordan's Snack Bar is famous locally for its fresh onion rings. The food here is unusually good and reasonably priced.

The White Birches in Hancock features an 18-hole, par-thre course lighted for night play. It sports Downeast Maine's only island green.

If you're into foreign cars, check out the selection at CAR MARKET on Route 1 in Hancock. On hand are some cherry Volvos, Saabs, and BMWs. Call 207/667-9200.

At Maine Made Gifts & Crafts, Debby Ciampa takes great pride in the many unique, one-of-a-kind handmade items she handles. Debby consistently underestimates the value of her time; most often her prices are lower than you'll find elsewhere. Right now she is featuring American Girl Size doll clothes.

SHIRLEY'S GIFTS, YARNS & CRAFTS has in inventory more than 2,500 different hand-knitting yarns They come from all over the world--from the Orient to Europe, from South American to Norway. Incidentally, Shirley also carries 40 flavors of jelly bellies. Call 207-667-7158.

Just down the road, you'll come to the spot where Ray Murphy, the world's foremost chainsaw sculptor, holds court. Murphy is an immensely talented artist, creating magnificent beasts from raw blocks of wood with his trusty chainsaw. He bills himself as the Wild Mountain Man, but beneath his rough exterior lies the heart of a poet. He got his start back in his lumberjack days when he impulsively carved a bathtub from a fallen log, much to the merriment of his fellow loggers. They aren't laughing any longer. Ray went on to become famous, taking his art all over the country, racking up well over a million miles on his big bus. He has held crowds spellbound by carving people's initials on wooden belt buckles--while they were wearing them. Robert Ripley featured Ray in his syndicated column after a chainsaw-banishing Ray carved the entire alphabet onto a common lead pencil.

At the Tideway Market, you can stay on Rte 1 or turn left towards Franklin. (Try eating here; you'll think you're at home.) The second option leads you to Franklin Memorial Park, which sports a galamander, a large-wheeled vehicle once used for hauling great slabs of granite. Further on, turn left onto Rte 182 and you'll find a scenic highway that also is a shortcut to Cherryfield. This road winds through some lovely woods and by several appealing ponds before reaching a picturesque picnic area.


Further on you’ll come to the DOWNEAST INFORMATION CENTER, not just a place to get directions, but also an elegant tea house and a nice gift shop. The people are both gracious and knowledgeable.

Keith Herklotz has had a lifelong love affair with clay. As a small child, he found clay in a brook near his home and used it to fashion countless objects. He was an apprentice potter in Connecticut, Japan, and Ohio. How he works in his own studio in Franklin, doing business as Down to Earth Pottery. All his work is oven-safe, lead-free, affordable, and functional.

If you stay on Rte 200, you'll come to the local historical society's museum, which is housed in an old Baptist church and in an old post office. On this road is Hog Bay Berries, a 20-acre blueberry field where you can pick your own, BeattieWood Shade Gardens, which specializes in hostas. On hand are some 90 varieties of this hardy, perennial, shade-loving plant. Prices are very reasonable. Near-by is Hog Bay Pottery, where you can see the distinctive dinnerware of Charles Grosjean and the award-winning woven rugs of his wife Susanne. This also is a good place to see birds--eagles, hawks, and cormorants are often present. Keep going on Rte. 200 and you'll come to Spring Woods Gallery, Paul and Ann Breeden's place. There are oils, acrylics, and watercolors by the Breedens and a nice assortment of native American pottery, jewelry and instruments.

Ounce for ounce, sea vegetables are higher in vitamins and minerals than any other class of foods, according to the folks at Maine Coast Sea Vegetables in Franklin. They offer four varieties -- alaria, dulse, kelp and laver, all of which are hand-harvested, sun-dried, and packaged without further processing. The idea may seem a bit strange to some of us, but people all over the world have been ingesting seaweeds for centuries. Evidently, they have reaped great nutritional benefits in a highly enjoyable fashion. Maine Coast Sea Vegetable's products can be found in many Downeast stores. Call 207-565-2907.

Back on Route 1, the incredible log building on the left is a 6,000 sq. ft. Scandanavian Scribe by the Wooden House Company of South Ryegate, Vermont. Some of the logs here have diameters of more than two feet. It houses The Hungry Bear Restaurant, a distributorship for the California Motorcycle Company, and the No Frills Oil Company, as well as apartments and offices.

At the Collector's Shop, Fran Warford will provide you her 10 percent dealer's discount on purchases of over $5 if you ask for it.

If you stay on Rte 1, you'll come to Ruth and Wimpy's Restaurant where quite often you can get the area's best deal on a lobster dinner. Here also is Hancock’s foremost celebrity Wilbur the Lobster, the world's biggest lobster sculpture. A few years ago, Roadway Express included Wilbur on its list of the 12 most interesting things to see in the United States. The 20-foot, fiberglass creation has been the subject of countless articles and mentions in tourist-related publications. Kirstie Alley offered Wimpy a blank check for Wilbur, but he turned her down. "That’s our logo," he pointed out.

At DEBBIE'S BLUEBERRY WARE FACTOR OUTLET AND GIFT SHOP, you can find lovely pottery pieces with minor flaws at greatly reduced prices. Debbie is a real person--she's Debbie Butterwick, and she's the artist who designed the copyrighted blueberry motif that adorns the pottery her company produces. What started as a hobby has grown to employ a couple of dozen people and enjoy nationwide sales. If you like blueberries, you'll love her shop. Here you'll find blueberry fudge, blueberry soap, blueberry candy, blueberry napkins, wrapping paper, bags, even blueberry jewelry. The shop is a real factory outlet with genuinely low prices. Recently, they have extended their line of Maine-made gifts--all at factory outlet prices. Call 207-422-644I.

Hancock. Here there is a nice park and memorial to Pierre Monteux, who founded the famed Pierre Monteux School for Advanced Conductors and Orchestra Players. during the summer, free concerts are held the last Wednesday of June and each Wednesday of July. Donations are accepted. A free children's concert is held in mid-July. Call 422-3931 for details. Tickets for the regular Sunday concerts are $7. Full symphony orchestra concerts are held the last two Sundays in June and all of July at 5 p.m. ($15 donation) and Chamber concerts those Wednesdays at 7 p.m. ($8 donation).

"Maine: An Explorer's Guide" gives the Crocker House Country Inn credit for providing top quality at moderate prices and for having features that are appealing to children. (Near-by is the nation' second smallest post office.

Le Domaine, a French restaurant in Hancock, is one of but two Maine eateries that Fodor's singles out as one of its Choices. This place is expensive, but might well be Maine's best restaurant.

Chriss Covert is the real thing—she has traveled to Africa numerous times and immersed herself into various cultures there. Back home in Hancock she has opened ARTS AND AFRICANA , a gallery and shop featuring artifacts and objects of art from that fascinating continent.

A road to the right leads To Gull Rock Pottery. The stonework made here is wheel-thrown and hand-decorated and far from cheap; there is, however, a seconds table featuring slightly imperfect pieces at reasonable prices. The view of Mount Desert Island here is unsurpassed.

There’s a nice selection of crafts at Perk’s Worx on the East Side Road.

The Route One Corridor Committee is endeavoring to have the Sullivan town line mark the beginning of a Scenic Byway.

Cross the bridge into Sullivan, take a left, and you'll come to Art & Old Things, featuring an interesting and eclectic collection of traditional antiques and "junktiques" along with fine art and a wonderful sculpture garden. A mile or so further down this road is the Barter Family Art Gallery. Philip and Priscilla Barter have integrated their art with their lives. Their home, their gallery, their workshop are all works of art--paintings, wood relief, sculptures, crafts, you name it.

The Sullivan Gallery features the work of local artists.

There are those who say that O'Connor's Store has coastal Maine's best hotdogs. Try Downeast bubble gum--pieces of dried fish--at Young's Store. Here gasoline prices generally are lower than anyplace further east.

BASS COVE FARM offers special discounts for stays of over four days.

At TUCKER MOUNTAIN LOG HOMES, skilled logsmiths build custom-designed, handcrafted dwellings. Unique digs like these are available nowhere else in Maine.

Further on, you’ll find the SHANAHAN'S ENTERPRISES on Flander’s Bay. Barbara Shanahan runs a nice antique shop and rents cabins and campsites. Everything is on the ocean and accessible to kayakers and canoeists as well as motorists. Call 207/422-6408.

I walked into Angel Antics Glass Crafters hoping to sell an ad and walked out with this terrific kaleidoscope, a unique, hand-crafted object of art combining kiln-formed glass, antique pieces of jewelry, and bits of rare glass. I am quite sure my wife will treasure it forever.

If you're into nature, woods, mountains, and lakes, turn left onto Route 183. Four-point- three miles past abandoned railroad tracks, turn left at a sign to Donnell Pond and Maine public reserve lands. Go four-tenths of a mile, then bear left and keep straight another 1.9 miles to a parking area. Nearby are trails up Schoodic and Black mountains and a half-mile walk to a spacious beach and picnic area on Donnell Pond. The Schoodic Mountain trail takes less than two hours - it's about 1.5 miles - but is steep. Your reward is the best view of Mount Desert Island around.

The Gouldsboro Historical Society operates a museum in a historic building on Rte 1. It is open 2 to 4 July and August.

Rte 186 leaves Rte 1 and makes a big loop around the Schoodic Peninsula. Rte 195 bisects the loop.

Kayakers staying at the SUNSET HOUSE B&B find access to both fresh and salt water.

At the Maine Kiln Works, Dan and Elizabeth Weaver augment their more typical pottery selections with Maine's largest assortment of stoneware sinks. Fired at 2,360 degrees, the handformed sinks emerge from the kiln part glass and part stone. They are available in several sizes and styles. Each is beautifully distinctive.

On a ridge running parallel with the shore in South Gouldsboro, there are frequent unobstructed views of the islands in the Bay.

About three miles down 186, The Bluff House Inn & Restaurant offers an outstanding 180 degree view from Mount Desert Island to Schoodic Mountain as well as tastefully decorated rooms at rates to suit every budget. Guests get breakfast and dinner (as can others with reservations. Call 207/963-7805).

Finally in Winter Harbor, check out LEE ART GLASS STUDIO. The guys here make unique things with terra cotta and bisque molds. We have seen pieces for sale at the studio for a fifth of the price people are paying in Northeast Harbor (not that those folks can’t afford to pay a premium.)

Opened in 2003, the state-of-the-art Grindstone Neck Gourmet Smoked Seafood facility is a stop well worth making. Stop by for free samples and pick up some to take home.

If you want to see rough seas breaking along a rugged shoreline, check out Grindstone Neck. This peninsula is home to a fashionable summer colony. Sometimes off the western shore of Ned Island, you can see Roaring Bull--the ocean breaking over a submerged ledge midst an otherwise calm stretch of water

For fine dining in an elegant atmosphere, check out Fisherman’s Inn Restaurant. They promise "Real Food Done Well"!

How many of us can recall the days when "soda jerk" was a highly respected profession. Well, the folks at J.M. Gerrish can. Their’s been a popular cream parlor in the heart of downtown Winter Harbor for the past 75 years.

For embroidery and imprinting, the Creative Design Studio on Duck Pond Road is the place to go. Using both screenprinting and computer-assisted graphics, Robin Foskett is right on the cutting edge. Whether you want one item or a hundred, this young lady will tend to your every need.

MAIN STAY COTTAGES on Sargent Street are next to the marina, very convenient for sailors. These modern cottages have fireplaces, cooking and refrigeration facilities, and are just minutes from the Schoodic portion of Acadia National Park. This is the only lodging in Winter Harbor that overlooks the ocean. Call (207)963-2601.

Whatever you do, don’t miss Winter Harbor’s famous lobster festival held the second Saturday of August. It attracts the world’s speediest lobster boats for its famous races. Other attractions include delicious food, children’s activities, a parade, live music, and crafts.

The Pines provides rustic and inexpensive accommodations near the entrance to Acadia National Park.

The Schoodic section of Acadia National Park is comprised of 2,080 acres and features a 7.2-mile shore drive. At the entrance to the park, there is Frazier's Point, a picnic-rest area where you can stop for a barbecue picnic, sit and enjoy the panoramic view, or try saltwater fishing off the end of a pier stretching into the cove.

From the western side of the park bordering the sound, there is a view of Mount Desert Island's mountains. A short distance from the shore, there is a turn-out and a trail leading to the Raven's Nest where the sea has carved a ragged "W' into the cliffs rising above them.

The waters of the sound are linked to two quiet coves by a short ride through the woods to a promontory where at twilight deer may be seen feeding at the roadside. At the coves, you may find sea-ducks or blue heron. From here you can hike along a winding road to the top of Schoodic Mountain, a headland 400 feet above the ocean. From the summit, you can see magnificent views into the Bay of Fundy.

On the east side of Big Moose Island, there is a cove at which turbulent seas have erected ever higher stacks of beach rock. When the tide is right, a sand bar stretches to Little Moose Island, on which there are trails leading to high elevations and fine views.

Schoodic Point juts further out into open sea than any other point on the U.S. eastern coast. Here the sea crashes in, sending geysers of spray 40 feet into the air. The gulls are almost tame.

If you want to stretch your legs, consider the 1.3-mile-long Anvil Trail, accessible from the Blueberry Hill parking area. If you don't like retracing your steps, head down the westernmost trail, which eventually comes out on a gravel road. You can follow the road until you see a trail straight ahead near a ranger's house. That trail takes you through nice, level, grassy and wooded areas back to your car.

Leaving the park, you can see several clear illustrations of Maine's famed rocky coast, where beaches have been hammered from the cliffs by the pounding seas.

Once out of the park, you come upon Wonsqueak Harbor, where the rocks have turned red and the waters are so narrow the lobster boats are moored single file. This harbor got its name from the legend of an Indian brave who punished his cheating squaw by drowning her. As she went down the the last time, she managed to emit one squeak.

Stinson Seafood Company is Maine's largest and the nation's most highly automated sardine cannery.

When Maine's famous Perry's Nut House closed its doors, its assets were auctioned off, and its fabulous nut collection went to DIMARCO REALTY in Prospect Harbor. It's the world's biggest nut collection, including examples of every known botanical nut, and on public display. If you’re looking for real estate Downeast, Al DiMarco is the guy to see. He has a huge selection, and he’ll treat you right.

You might want to investigate Darthia Farm where Bill and Cindy Thayer market organic produce, lamb skins, wool, and raw mohair. Cindy is a weaver of shawls from hand-dyed silk. Check out the horse-drawn hay and sleigh rides. Call 207-963-7771.

Richard Fisher suspects that his love of bells goes back to the Chinese windbells that hung outside the house he grew up in. He has taken that love and turned it into a thriving enterprise. At U.S. Bells in Prospect Harbor, you can see many of his creations, cast in bronze and capable of producing pure and enduring tones. Many of his bells are unusual, with the clapper linkages hanging beside the bell rather than concealed inside. Often he groups them in intriguing clusters. Fisher's bells are lovely sculptures as well as functional noise-makers. Prices begin at around $50. Call 207-963-7184.

At the Oceanside Meadows Inn Bed & Breakfast, Sonja and Ben will let you use the unusual (for these parts) sand beach on their property. It's a good place to find sand dollars and sea cucumbers. Sometimes you can see seals.

A bit further on, watch for the Bartlett Maine Estate Winery sign. The Bartletts produce unusual fruit wines from apples, raspberries, pears, and Maine blueberries. Although fruit wines generally are sweet, these are semi-sweet and dry. You can take one of their hourly guided tours Tuesday thru Saturday June 1 thru late Oct. Samples are available in the tasting room.

Peter Weil shows his metal sculptures at his gallery on Old Rte 1, Steuben. Weil, a nationally known artist, is celebrated for the whimsical quality he lends his animal creations. Call 207-546-2269. This year his wife, Jane, has started a commercial garden with many reasonably priced perennials on hand. The gallery and gardens combine in a really lovely setting.

Downtown you can tour the historic Moore Parish Hall.

Down the Rogers Point Road, Arthur Smith holds court at A & M Chain Saw Sculptures. With his chainsaw, Smith has created a unique menagerie of strange and loveable beasts. The place is a bit out of the way, but worth the detour.

Ever wonder what Lath Art is? Well, wonder no more; you can see some for yourself at Charles Leach’s place, 42 Oak Ridge Road, Steuben. A clue: Lath Art is three dimensional and highly original.

Steuben is home of the 40-acre Eagle Hill Wildlife Research Station, which thruout the summer runs weeklong professional courses and daylong field trips highlighting the natural history of the Maine coast.

The Petit Manan National Wildlife Refuge, 3,335 acres, is known for the many species of birds it attracts--seabirds, shorebirds, songbirds, waterfowl, including bald eagles, peregrine falcons, and roseate terns. More than 150 bird species have been spotted here. Petit Manan is a rugged, windblown place. It has many habitats, including spruce and mixed hardwood forests, jack pine stands, cedar swamps, raised heath wetlands, blueberry barrens, and fresh- and saltwater marshes. There are two interpretive footpaths to the shore.

You can park along Pigeon Hill Road and take a canoe or kayak across a short channel to the Wildlife Refuge section of Bois Bubert Island.

On your way, you get a nice view of Petit Manan Lighthouse and you pass the only outdoor retreat for women, Raven's Retreat.

Watch for the sign directing you to Far Point Handspun Wool.

Milbridge is a historic seafaring and shipbuilding community. Just inside the village, a right turn puts you on Wyman Road which takes you down a thin peninsula where you can visit a lobster pound and McClellan Park, ten acres of beautiful rocky shore with picnic areas, campsites, tidal pools, and trails.

The new Milbridge Historical Museum on Main St. harkens back to the town's shipbuilding days. It's open 1 to 4 p.m. Tuesday, Saturday and Sunday during July and August. Admission is free, tho donations are appreciated.

The cranberry pie at the Milbridge House has received raves in New Yorker magazine.

The Milbridge Theatre, which shows first-run films, sells all tickets for $3.50.

Michael Dwyer of Milbridge does both residential and commercial architecture.

Kelley's Flower Shop can take care of your floral needs. Call 207-546-2779. The Cinnamon Stick is a good place to pick up dried flowers.

For more than a quarter of a century, the RED BARN MOTEL AND RESTAURANT has been a must-stop for many people traveling in Eastern Maine. The food is good, the accommodations comfortable and reasonably priced.

The mouth of the salmon-rich Narraguagus River is at Milbridge. Salmon spawn here in early summer, and you can fish without a license if you stay beyond the brackish water on the inlet side of the bridge.

If it has to do with boats, you can deal with it at TriTown Marine in Harrington. The guys at this full-service facility know their watercraft, thatâs for sure.

As you approach Cherryfield, you'll see The Recycle Shop on your right. This is a ministry of the Maine Sea Coast Mission in Bar Harbor and offers great deals in used clothing and books. The base price is ten cents an item, with donations above that gratefully accepted.

Out on Route 182, Mary Weston tends The Dusty Rose, an old house full of antiques, collectibles, vintage goods, and other great stuff

The Cherryfield Historic District, an area of about l75 acres lying on both sides of the Narraguagus River, contains excellent examples of most popular 19th century architectural styles, including Second Empire, Federal, Greek Revival, Italiana,Queen Anne, and Colonial Revival. Cherryfield's Second Empire-style houses are unsurpassed. The local historical society publishes a map, available at most information centers, to assist tourists.

Sprucing up the downtown, the Narraguagus Trading Company is developing into a quality group shop with a nice mix of antiques, collectibles, and crafts.

The Ricker House, circa 1802, picked by Inn Times magazine as one America's top 50 inns, is this historic town's fifth oldest house. Both of these accommodations offer reasonable rates.

The Cherryfield Town Band, which traces its roots back to 1869, offers Tuesday evening concerts at the new Gazebo Bandstand in the town park. This 35-piece band was featured in the Boston Sunday Globe. While you're in town, check out the historic Blacksmith Shop.

Route 193 out of Cherryfield leads to Route 9 thru Deblois. This road will take you by the Wyman Company's vast blueberry barrens. Those flecks of blue you find in certain pancake mixes are wild blueberries, and ninety percent of the nation's wild blueberries come from Washington County. In town, there are two blueberry processing plants which provide tours.

Jerry Blackburn, who sells lots of interesting old stuff at his shop, Mill River Antiques and Salvage Co., on Rte 1 in Cherryfield is struggling to found the Downeast Museum of Natural History and Art Center. His aim is to preserve 19th century Downeast history in a museum setting. He says it all started when he decided to hang onto an old doctor's bag filled with early patent medicines. This should be preserved in a museum, he reflected, and since no museum existed, he became determined to start his own.

In Harrington, you might want to take one of the Worcester Wreath Company's tours. They take about 30 minutes and will acquaint you with all aspects of the wreath business. These people do a big mail-order business; they sell some $100,000 worth of wreaths annually and are said to be the world's largest marketeers of decorated wreaths. Call 207-483-6502 for scheduling.

North from Harrington is road into the blueberry barrens and two put-ins for canoe/kayak trips on the Pleasant River--three-hour and one-day trips down the Pleasant through the Great Heath, the largest peat bog in New England. Continuing on the Ridge Road, you reach the Columbia Town Hall, with its outstanding views of the surrounding river valley and barrens.

Back on Route One, you’ll come upon Dallas's Lobsta Take-out, a nifty little eatery featuring the only outdoor lobster cooker between Ellsworth and the Canadian border.

Then a couple of miles down the Marshville Road are the Ocean Spray Cottages, unsurpassed for quiet, peaceful, relaxing surroundings. They’re open year round. Call 207/483-2780.

Just a tad off the beaten path, in Addison, you'll find Comfrey Corner Farm. Here Chris Guy offers a nice assortment of herbs, pot pourri, crafts, and spices. The famous Addison Marches are among the best bird-watchidng areas in Maine.

The Blue Heron Art Gallery is where Hazel Carter hangs much of her work. Self-taught, Carter has spent a lifetime honing her craft. She paints many familar Maine scenes, but has a knack for bringing them alive. Call 207-483-4715

There is a llama keep at Pleasant Bay, a bed and breakfast in Addison, and folks are invited to come see these fascinating creatures.

Just off Rte 1 in Columbia Falls, the Ruggles House, circa 1820, is remarkable for its delicate interior and exterior handcarvings. These were completed over a three-year period by an English carver armed only with a penknife. The most noted architects are said to have found the famed flying staircase astounding. Filled with period furniture, the Adams-style home is open to the public June 1 to Oct. 15; admission is free, though donations are requested. Call 207-483-4637.

Nearby is Columbia Falls Pottery, which provides very high-quality and colorful majolica pieces. The stock here is not inexpensive, but they do have a seconds table which usually contains at least a few items.

There is a bridge across Moosebec Reach to Beals Island and here you can visit the Regional Fish Hatchery, which is housed in a former clam-shucking house on the wharf. An education center/museum is housed in the upper level of the former power house. Visitors can view videos, historical photographs, aquariums, and other displays related to salmon and the rivers Downeast. Interpretive tours are provided. Admission is $1.

Immediately past Columbia Falls village, you can turn north on Centerville Road, which leads to Milton Mountain. A short hike to the top provides wonderful views of the barrens, bog, and coastal lands to the ocean. Near the end of the Centerville Road, a logging road leads to beautiful Holmes Falls on the Machias River for canoeing/kayaking and swimming.

Nobody offers better deals on nautical necessities than the Colloras at TUGBOAT MARINE SUPPLIES in Columbia Falls.

Want to take a really enjoyable cruise? Island Cruises provides a great one out of Jonesport. Capt. Laura Fish takes up to six passengers for three-hour trips on the 23-foot Aaron Thomas. They go poking about the islands of Moosabec Reach, including Great Wass, which is especially nice because most of its wild beauty is protected by Nature Conservancy. Laura is amiable and will arrange customized cruises to places of particular interest. Call 207-497-3064 for reservations.

At Jonesport Nautical Antiques, Bernhard Sund offers a terrific assortment of authentic and beautiful nautical memorabilia.

At Tall Barney's Restaurant in Jonesport, there is a special Liar's Table reserved for some of Maine's best spinners of tall tales.

Machias Seal Island, 10 miles from the mainland, is the best place in the world to get an up-close look at puffins. Probably the best way to get there is on Capt. Barna B. Norton's vessel, which departs from Jonesport at 7 a.m. each morning. The Norton family has been providing cruises since 1940. The cost for the guided tour is $50 a head. Call 207-497-5933.

At Crossroad Farm in Jonesport, Arnold and Bonnie Pearlman sell a wide variety of organic produce at eminently fair prices. Back in the sixties, the Pearlmans were among those determined to return to the land. They did so; unlike many of their contemporaries, however, they stuck it out. They live simply and waste nothing. Whatever electricity they use, they produce themselves with wind turbines and photovoltaics.

On Loon Point Road, check out Nelson Decoys. Nelsob's birds have won 37 first place ribbons in various competitions as well as a Best of Show award in 1995.

A bridge links Jonesport with Beals and Great Wass islands. Here the Nature Conservancy makes three miles of trails available to hikers and picnickers in its 1,540-acre preserve. Near here, you can visit the historic home of Tall Barney Beal. At the bridge to Beals Island, visit the Atlantic Hatchery to view the seeding and development of clams.

By getting a bit off the beaten track, you can get very nice accommodations for very little money. A good case in point is ROSEMARIE'S MOTEL in Beals. For forty-five bucks a night you get two double beds, color cable TV, a kitchenette with microwave and refrigerator, and access to laundry facilities. From RoseMarie’s, it’s just a short walk to modern boat-launching facilities, an ocean beach, and the Great Wass Island Nature Preserve. RoseMarie’s is family-owned and maintained with great pride.

Roque Bluffs State Park has no camping, but provides swimming in both salt and fresh water. The shore affords pleasing views of several wooded islands, one of which is Roque Island. At several spots there are well-equipped picnic sites, one of which has a playground. There are no hiking trails. An interesting near-by golf course is a well-kept secret.

Back on Route One, Jonesboro's White House Restaurant is in a house that isn't white, but for a really first-class piece of pie, go here.

In his guide to Maine, Charles Calhoun placed Micmac Farm in Machiasport among the state's dozen best restaurants. He called MicMac "the Platonic ideal of a Maine country inn; an 18th-century house in the woods, a warm fire, glistening antiques, amiable hosts, a short but perfect menu". Call 207-255-3008 for reservations.

In the early days, Machias, which means "Little Bad River," was a popular hideout for pirates. The notorious Bellamy tried to establish a retirement village for ageing pirates here. Things fell apart after Bellamy was captured and hanged in Massachusetts, but near where the bridge crosses the Machias River, the breastworks and moats may still be seen.

In 1775, the first Naval battle of the American Revolution was fought at Machias. It occurred when a small band of patriots captured the Margaretta, a British man-o-war. Surviving from that time on Main Street downtown is the Burnham Tavern. Here the patriots are said to have plotted the overthrow of King George. Following the battle, the tavern was used as a hospital. It is the oldest building in eastern Maine and the only one boasting ties to the Revolution. Inside are period furnishings and historical artifacts. Open late June-Labor Day, Monday-Friday. Admission: $2.

Between Machias and Machiasport on Rte 92, a marker sets beside a small stream. Known as Foster's Rubicon marker, it depicts the spot where the rebellious Col. Benjamin Foster challenged an indecisive band of men to follow him across the stream if they dared engage the British in battle. The patriots followed the dashing Colonel's lead and ultimately ended up capturing the British man-o-war Margaretta in the aforementioned first naval engagement of the Revolution. (Foster was an inspiring instigator, but a bungling seaman. The sloop he commanded on this foray quickly ran aground and missed out on the action. Jeremiah O'Brien led the men who took the Margaretta.

The Starboard Peninsula holds Fort O'Brien (1775) (often called Fort Machias), a fine picnic spot. Admission is free. In town is the Machiasport Historical Society's Gates House, an 1807 Federal-style building with period furnishings and marine artifacts. Open weekdays 12:30 to 4:30 p.m. June 1 to mid-sept. Admission: free.

It's hard to imagine a more attractive setting for getting an education that the Coast of Maine. Well, you can get a good one at the University of Maine at Machias.

Nobody in or around Machias is more enterprising than Flo. She operates Nannie's Attic, a great gift emporium, a Coffee Express, Flo's Wreaths, Flo’s Florals, and, most recently, Flo’s Take-out. Many folks Downeast have found it pays to diversify, but few have done it as bountifully as Flo.

"Our main business is framing," says Holly Garner-Jackson of Woodwind Gallery. "So if people want to come in and just look around, they're certainly welcome." Visitors accepting Holly's invitation can see the work of more than 50 artists and artisans. There's space here for beginning and experimental art as well as work by polished and well-known professionals. The day we visited, prices ranged from $30 to $2,200, and, besides paintings, there were carvings, woodcuts, some stained glass, and ships models. Holly also sells art supplies, and lay-aways can be arranged. "Our paintings aren't spaced 15 feet apart, and you don't have to worry about tracking a little dirt on the rug," Holly says. "We want people to enjoy themselveFat Cat Deli on Main Street in is the place to go for a quick and satisfying meal. The house speicalty in a wide variety of over-stuffed, deli-style sandwiches—all for under $5. On Friday nights there is live music..

Fat Cat Deli on Main Street in is the place to go for a quick and satisfying meal. The house speicalty in a wide variety of over-stuffed, deli-style sandwiches—all for under $5. On Friday nights there is live music..

Sandy Bryand describes herself as "a crazy lady who spends her money giving away clothes." Well, she isn't crazy, really, but she is a good-humored woman who all lbut gives away clothes at her Bag 'O Rags Thrift Shop (207-255-4649) on Main St. The deals here are delightful, as is Sandy's company.

Sandy's Sales is a big wholesale and retail center in East Machias. All kinds of bargains here. On Lower Main Street, Esther's Resale Shop stocks a variety of used clothes and accessories. At Smitty's Trading Post, you can get good deals on both new and used guns.

The Downriver Theatre Company is celebrating its sixth summer in Machias. Call 255-4997 for tickets.

The Machias Bay Chamber Concerts offers classical concerts Tuesdays in July and August at 8 p.m. in the Center Street Congregational Church. Admission is charged. Call 255-3889.

In the center of Machias, check out Bad Little Falls. You're likely to see harbor seals. The Machias River holds some of the East's best salmon waters.

Everything at Grandma's Pantry in East Machias is baked fresh daily. This includes a nice selection of breads, pies, and jams and jellies.

Biscuits 'n' gravy sound like the essence of simplicity. How could anybody go wrong putting gravy on biscuits? Well, most people do. You pretty much have to be southern to get it right. Or from the South, like Agnes Tripp, who runs Sam's Country Cafe in East Machias. One of her specialties is real down home sausage gravy, biscuits, and grits. If this is your idea of good eatin', stop on by.

East of Machias is a pottery studio called Clay of Fundy. Get it? Not Bay of Fundy, but Clay of Fundy. An ornament from here was chosen to adorn President Clinton's White House Christmas Tree.

At Bucks Harbor is Jasper Beach, with unusual water-worn rocks and pebbles. According to Kim Bennett of Bennett's Gems and Minerals in Belfast, these actually aren't jasper, but rhyolite, a volcanic rock that closely resembles jasper.

Fort Foster (1776) on the east side of the Machias River saw action during the Revolutionary War when settlers and Indians fought side-by-side against the British. Admission: free.

Mill Memorial Park honors the logging industry.

North of Machias on Route 9 is Crawford, home of the Breakneck Mountain Bluegrass Festival. This decade-old, three-day, get-together in July features some of the finest Bluegrass music in the Northeast. It's all quite informal. You can take a break from the stage show and walk the grounds, listening to the musicians getting together for spontaneous sessions.

All cultures sprout creators. Place and time are meaningless. France, for example, may boast of its prehistoric cave painters, but Maine had scarcely less impressive petroglyph artists. These early inhabitants made rock carvings of everyday tribal life that go back a couple of thousand years, maybe much further. In East Machias, petroglyphs can be found at three different sites, and the best way to view them is to book passage on one of Captain Martha Jordan's boat tours out of East Machias. Capt. Jordan knows more about these works than just about anybody else. She worked on the collection of beautiful relief prints permanently on display at Washington Academy in East Machias. She also knows a great deal about the area's history and is sensitive to its flora and fauna. You'll need a reservation; call 207-259-3338.

On the western side of Little Machias Bay are the 26 towers of the U.S. Navy Communications Center, which maintains contact with naval operations worldwide. This is said to be the world's most powerful radio station.

From Cutler, you can catch a tour boat to Machias Seal Island, where you can see Atlantic puffins. Rates: $5 to $7.

Backpackers will be interested in the new Cutler Coast Reserve. Situated south of Holmes Cove, hikers along the are rewarded with spectacular views off 100-foot bedrock cliffs. The 2,174-acre parcel, which contains 4.5 miles of isolated coastline, is maintained by Maine's Bureau of Public Lands and eventually will include several remote campsites. Once completed, it will be Maine's longest coastal footpath.
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The LITTLE RIVER LODGE is a bed and breakfast overlooking the picturesque harbor in Cutler, Maine. The Lodge features five guest rooms, three with harbor views, offering guests a choice of accommodations. Each of our guest rooms is decorated with nautical antiques, rare books and paintings of ships and shores. You are invited to experience what is still a tranquil and unspoiled part of the Maine coast, and enjoy comfortable lodging in a small,scenic fishing village.

At the PETITE RETREAT in Whiting, Don Green has created a bit of paradise wrapped in an ingenious plastic shell. He has designed a spa calculated to provide visitors an experience of complete relaxation of body, mind, and spirit. He provides several varieties of therapeutic massage, exfoliating body scrubs, and European herbal wraps as well as sauna and hot tub. He refers to it as "your get away, not far away." It’s worth a visit. 


LUBEC

Lubec, the country's easternmost town, once was home to nearly two dozen sardine canneries. Just two remain: Peacock Canning and Lubec Packing Company.

Alan and Gretchen Mead have opened Cottage Garden to the public. Their primary mission, they say, is to educate people about gardening by showing them their phenomenal perennials. Situated four-and-a-half miles down the N. Lubec Road, the Meads also have a herb garden, a stream-side damp garden, and an alpine collection. You can get dried flower wreaths at the Herb Shop as well as unique decorated garden benches, bird houses, and framed bird and botanical prints. They're open 10 to 4 Wednesday thru Sunday and other times by chance or appointment. Admission is free.

Near Lubec is Quoddy Head State Park, adjacent to West Quoddy Head Light, Maine's famous red-and-white striped lighthouse The grounds are accessible from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily. The state park offers scenic grandeur, hiking trails, and picnic sites.

The Roosevelt International Bridge connects Lubec and Campobello Island, where Franklin D. Roosevelt summered as a young man. The Roosevelt cottage, a museum, is open to the public from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. until mid-Oct. Admission is free. The Roosevelt-Campobello International Park, established in 1964, occupies 2,800 acres of the island and includes hiking trails, picnic areas, and numerous scenic vistas.

The grounds of East Quoddy Head Light at Head Harbor at the island's northern tip are accessible at low tide.

Twenty-five foot tides in the Bay of Fundy are among the world's highest and produce a spectacular rush of water well worth watching. This area might also be the world's foggiest.

Even at the peak of the season, Cobscook Bay State Park rarely fills. You have a good chance of getting a campsite even without a reservation. Numerous sites overlook the bay. Unlike many state parks, Cobscook offers hot showers. Call 207-725-4412.

At the Red Wagon Quilt & Craft Shop in Pembroke, Alma Bednarik has developed a way to knit the world’s warmest mittens. 

EASTPORT

The nation's easternmost city, Eastport has seen some hard times since the collapse of its sardine-based economy, but seems to be bouncing back. The downtown area, once noted for its abandoned buildings, is coming alive with shops and galleries. Eastport also has a busy working waterfront and seaport. Of late, salmon farming has been among the enterprises providing the area an economic boost. The annual Salmon Festival, held the first Sunday after Labor Day, is a gala event.

Three miles outside of Eastport is the Pasamaquoddy Indians' Pleasant Point Reservation. The Waponahki Museum has a fine display of Indian artifacts and books on the history of the Passamaquoddy people and their language. You can buy Indian baskets here. Each august, there is a celebration of Native American heritage.

The Old Sow off Eastport is the largest whirlpool in the Western Hemisphere. (It may even be the world's largest; depends on which Atlas you believe.) Caused by massive colliding tidal currents, the spectacle can be observed from the shore near Dog Island at the northern end of Water Street. It is at its best on windy days or when tides are especially high. If you're brave and want to see the thing up close, you can take the auto ferry to Deer Island. On some trips, the ferry passes right through it.

The Eastport Arts Center provides local artists, sculptors, and craftspeople display space. During the summer, classes are held. Call 853-4133.

The Eastport Gallery has moved to new quarters at 69 Water Street.

Stage East, an Eastport theater group, has been offering spirited performances at rock-bottom prices: $5 a head ($4 for students and senior citizens; $12 for a season pass into three performances.) Write Stage East, P.O. Box 127, Eastport, ME 04631.

The Raye family has been making mustard in Eastport since the turn of the century. It began by servicing the town's several sardine canneries. Today, J.W. Raye & Co. Inc., having survived the downfall of this industry, still does things the old way, grinding carefully selected mustard seeds and spices between huge granite stones, then aging them in an ancient method that "marries" the flavors and produces the distinctive aroma of fine mustard. You're welcome to tour the Mustard Mill Museum; when it is in operation a yellow flag is flying. The Pantry Store features Raye's products along with other natural foods products and crafts. Gift baskets are made to order. Call 1-800-853-1903

Up the street, half-a-buck will get you into the Eastport Aquarium. Upstairs is an interesting collection of books dealing with the oceanic environment compiled by the Quoddy Foundation.

A new state hiking trail, Shackford Head, is situated behind the Marine Trades Center.

The MOTEL EAST provides one of the region's most spectacular panoramas. From one of its balconies, you can look across Passamaquoddy Bay to Campobello and Grand Manan Islands. To the north lies St. Croix Bay and the coast of New Brunswick. Call 207-853-4747.

Watch for the small, red, granite stone marking the halfway point between the equator and the North Pole. It can be found at a roadside park on Rte 1 a mile-and-a-half from Rte 190. There is an interesting gift and antique shop here.

Katie's On The Cove in Robbinston makes chocolates the old-fashioned way—by hand in small batches. The company, which specializes in Maine potato candy, has some well-loved recipes dating back more than a century. Katie's has been talked about positively in "Down East Magazine," "The National Enquirer," "National Examiner," "Woman's World," the "Bangor Daily News" and was featured on Maine Public Television’s "Made in Maine!" Her truffles and chocolates have gotten rave reviews from several best-selling travel guides, including "Yankee Magazine’s Travel Guide to New England 2000," "Off the Beaten Path" by Wayne Curtis, "Moon Handbooks-Maine Handbook," by Kathleen M. Brandes, and new in 2003, "An Explorer’s Guide to Maine," by Christina Tree. Call 207-545-8446 or order online at www.katiesonthecove.com.

St. Croix Island International Historic Site will celebrate its 400th anniversary in 2004. St. Croix Island was settled by the French nobleman Pierre Dugua, Sieur de Mons, in 1604. He brought 78 men with him, including Samuel Champlain, but the island proved an inhospitable winter site, and several of the men died. In 1605, Dugua moved his settlement to Port Royal in Nova Scotia. Today, there is no public access to St. Croix Island, but it may be viewed from the shore of Red Beach.


CALAIS

The most direct way to get to Calais from Bangor is on Route 9, commonly called The Airline. This is not a road for the faint of heart. Sometimes it seems like people driving have reached a tacit agreement that all speed laws have been suspended. Pulp trucks rule here, and people in cars are advised to steer clear.

Calais, Maine's busiest border city, shares an unusually close relationship with St. Stephen, its Canadian neighbor. Each helps to celebrate the other's holidays, each responds to the other's police and fire emergencies, and St. Stephen provides Calais drinking water. It's one of just two places in the world where potable water is imported from a foreign country. An annual week-long festival celebrates the spirit of friendliness here.

Marilyn Bernardini, owner of Bernardini's, an Italian restaurant on Main Street, was named 1999 Restaurateur of the Year by the Maine Restaurant Association.

The CALAIS MOTOR INN has Washington County's only heated, indoor, Olympic-sized swimming pool. The stately Brewer House B&B was once the northernmost stopover for the underground railroad.